Margao, Goa  ·  A Culinary Legacy

TerezinhaRebelo

The Art of Home — Recipes from the Kitchen of Terezinha Rebelo

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Terezinha Rebelo — a life in portraits
"Your life was a blessing. Your memory a treasure.
You are loved beyond words and missed beyond measure."
— First Death Anniversary, Margao, 2022
Chapter I

Soups & Broths

Sopas & Caldos

Family Kitchen

Caldo Verde Potato & Greens Soup

Portugal's most beloved soup transcends regional origin when filtered through a Goan kitchen. Here, palak leaves stand in for collard greens — a pragmatic substitution that proves all great recipes are living things, adapting quietly to new latitudes without ever losing their soul.

Ingredients

  • Potatoes, 250 g
  • Palak (spinach) leaves, 150 g
  • 1 small onion
  • 1 small tomato
  • Water, 8 cups
  • Salt, to taste

Method

  1. Boil the potatoes separately and set aside.
  2. Put the onion, tomato and palak leaves in a pan with the water and cook until tender.
  3. Add the potatoes and pass everything through a blender or mixer.
  4. Adjust salt. Serve hot — a ladleful of milk stirred in at the last moment gives a silkier result.

Variation: A second version in Terezinha's notes makes a light aduba with garlic, adds the potato purée, water, finely sliced spring onion rings and milk — a Sunday kitchen refinement of the same dish.

For 5 persons — Terezinha's Hand

Sopa Portuguesa Broth with Egg, Chouriço & Toast

A meal concealed as a soup. The marriage of a poached egg, rounds of chouriço and lightly buttered toast soaked in bone broth is the Portuguese kitchen's most intimate expression of resourcefulness — waste nothing, nourish everyone. Two versions appear in the receituário; this is the more festive five-person edition.

Ingredients

  • Good chicken or beef stock
  • Sweet chouriço, sliced in rounds
  • 5 eggs
  • 2 onions, in rings
  • 2–3 tomatoes, cubed (skin on, seeds removed)
  • Sliced bread, lightly toasted with butter
  • Butter, 1 tbsp
  • Salt & pepper to taste

Method

  1. Make a well-reduced stock with the chouriço and chicken bones if available; strain.
  2. Bring the strained stock to a gentle simmer and add onion rings. After 10 minutes, add cubed tomato pieces.
  3. Break 5 eggs into the simmering broth one at a time and poach until just set.
  4. Place a slice of buttered toast in each deep bowl. Lay one poached egg on top.
  5. Arrange chouriço rounds, onion rings and tomato to the sides, then ladle the hot broth over everything and serve immediately.

Mae's Recipe — served in cups

Caldo de Camarão Prawn Bisque

The instruction to serve this bisque in cups rather than bowls speaks to the occasion for which it was made: a formal sitting room rather than a kitchen table. Ground prawn paste dissolved in shell stock, enriched with butter and cheese powder — this is the Goan-Portuguese kitchen at its most quietly elegant.

Ingredients

  • Prawns, sufficient quantity
  • Butter, to taste
  • Cheese powder, a little
  • Cornflour, a little (for consistency)
  • Water, for stock
  • Salt, to taste

Method

  1. Cut the tips of the prawn heads and boil them in water to form a stock. Drain and reserve the liquid.
  2. Shell the prawns completely. Pound the shells in a little water; add this liquor to the prawn stock and strain.
  3. In a grinder, reduce the shelled prawns to a fine paste. Dissolve the paste into the strained prawn stock.
  4. Bring to the fire; add butter and cheese powder. Stir constantly so the cheese incorporates smoothly.
  5. Just before removing from the heat, stir in a little cornflour dissolved in cold water to achieve the desired consistency. Season with salt and serve hot in cups.

Note: "Sai excelente o caldinho" — comes out excellent, this little broth. Mae's own endorsement.

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Chapter II

Starters & Small Bites

Entradas & Petiscos

Mae's Recipe

Pastéis de Camarão Prawn Pastries

Mae's prawn pastéis begin with a butter melted in fire, an egg broken in, flour folded in while still warm — a choux-adjacent pastry that is uniquely hers. The filling is a fragrant aduba of onion, garlic and ground prawn with tamarind water and a whisper of round pepper. These are assembled, egg-washed and fried until golden.

Ingredients — Pastry

  • Butter (lonim), melted
  • 1 egg, whole
  • Flour, as needed
  • A little water
  • Salt

Ingredients — Filling

  • Prawns, shelled & minced
  • Onion, in aduba (fried base)
  • Fat (lonim or oil), for frying
  • Garlic & ginger, pounded
  • Tamarind water, a little
  • Pepper powder & green chilli
  • Vinegar, a little

Method

  1. Melt butter over heat and allow to cool slightly. Add the whole beaten egg and a little water. Return to the fire and fold in flour. Cook briefly, stirring. Remove and allow to rest; add more water, salt and flour to desired workable consistency.
  2. For the filling: make an aduba with onion in fat. Add pounded garlic and ginger, then the minced prawns. Add a little vinegar, tamarind water, pepper powder and green chilli if desired. Cook until dry.
  3. Roll out the pastry. Cut circles, place a spoon of filling on each, fold, seal with a little water and crimp the edges.
  4. Brush with beaten egg yolk and fry in hot oil until golden. Drain and serve with salad.

Mae's Recipe — three family versions

Empadinhas Goan-Portuguese Meat Pies

Three versions of the empadinha appear in the receituário, each with a slightly different pastry: one made with semolina and coconut juice, another with plain flour and ghee, a third with egg yolks and tamarind fat from the filling itself. This layering of versions within a single recipe is the signature of a kitchen that has cooked a dish across generations, refining it with each repetition.

Ingredients — Crust (Mae)

  • Flour, ½ arratel (225 g)
  • Semolina (rolão), 2 oz
  • Egg yolks, 5
  • Fine sugar, 6 oz
  • Butter, 2 tbsp
  • Thick coconut milk, 4 tbsp

Ingredients — Filling

  • Beef, 1 arratel
  • Pork, ½ arratel
  • Onions, 6, finely cut
  • Garlic cloves, several
  • Vinegar, ½ wine-glass
  • Dried chillies (Bardez), 3
  • Cloves, 8 (powdered)
  • Tamarind water & sugar
  • Green chillies, 2
  • Salt to taste

Method

  1. Cut the meat into small pieces. Combine with onion, garlic, vinegar, ground chillies and cloves. Close the pan and cook on the fire, stirring with a wooden spoon — the meat cooks in its own juices.
  2. When cooked and the liquid is condensed, add tamarind water with salt. Cook until the meat is soft and the sauce absorbed. Add a spoonful of sugar and the green chillies (to be removed before filling). When well reduced, remove from heat and add powdered cloves.
  3. For the crust: mix the semolina, egg yolks, sugar, butter and thick coconut milk with the fat rendered from the filling. Work well together.
  4. Line small greased moulds with the crust paste. Fill with the prepared meat. Cover completely with more crust. Brush with egg yolk and bake.

Note: The proportions above yield approximately 20 empadinhas. The fat from the meat filling is a structural ingredient in the crust — a transfer of flavour that gives these pies their unmistakable depth.

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Chapter III

Fish & Seafood

Peixe & Mariscos

Titi's Recipe

Caldeirada de Sardinhas Sardine Stew with Tamarind & Turmeric

Titi's sardine caldeirada belongs to a tradition that predates refrigeration: the bold work of tamarind and turmeric not merely flavouring the fish but preserving it against Goa's coastal humidity. The onion goes in first, slowly fried in olive oil until a deep aduba forms — this is the foundation everything else is built upon.

Ingredients

  • Sardines, scaled & cleaned
  • Olive oil (azeite de oliveira)
  • Onions, plenty, in rings
  • Tomato purée, a little
  • Tamarind water, a little
  • Saffron (turmeric) powder
  • Round pepper powder
  • Green chilli, slit lengthwise
  • Salt to taste

Method

  1. Season the cleaned sardines with salt and set aside.
  2. Make an aduba in olive oil with generous onion rings and a little tomato purée. Cook until the onion is softened and lightly golden.
  3. Place the sardines into the aduba and allow to cook briefly so the fat begins to render — about 2 boils.
  4. Add tamarind water with saffron powder, round pepper powder and the slit green chilli.
  5. Simmer gently until the fish is just cooked through. Serve in the pot, or over rice.

Family Recipe

Balchão de Camarão Vinegar-Spiced Prawn Preserve

Balchão is Goa's most ancient method of preserving seafood — a vinegar-and-spice base that doubles as both condiment and main course. The prawn version calls for Calvim chillies ground dry-stone in vinegar, a pinch of cumin, saffron, cloves and a final spirit of wine at the finish. It sharpens over days and is better eaten the morning after it is made.

Ingredients

  • Prawns, ½ arratel, shelled & chopped
  • Calvim (or Kashmir) chillies, 1 oz
  • Ginger, 1 piece
  • Garlic, 1 bulb
  • Coriander seeds, 1 tsp
  • Saffron (turmeric), a piece
  • Cloves, 10
  • Onions, generous quantity
  • Olive oil (azeite), for aduba
  • Vinegar, to grind masala
  • A small measure of spirit (espirito)

Method

  1. Grind all the spices finely in vinegar on a dry stone — this is important: the stone must be free of water or the masala will not hold.
  2. Make a generous aduba of oil and onion, frying until deeply caramelised.
  3. Add the ground masala and fry with the onion.
  4. Add the prawns, already lightly fried separately, and cook together.
  5. Just before removing from the fire, add a measure of spirit. This is the finishing note — sharp, aromatic, preserving.

Terezinha's Own

Prato de Peixe — Caldinho Fish in Coconut Milk

The caldinho — literally "little broth" — is the most domestic of Goa's fish preparations: coconut milk drawn in two presses, the thin poured in early, the thick held back until the last possible moment so it does not break. The aduba of ginger, garlic and onion carries a whisper of vinegar. This is the weekday fish dish that defines the Goan table.

Ingredients

  • Fish (any firm white fish)
  • 1 coconut — thin & thick milk drawn separately
  • 3 round pepper corns
  • A little turmeric (saffron)
  • A pinch of cumin
  • Ginger, garlic & onion — for aduba
  • Vinegar, 1 tsp
  • Green chilli, half
  • Salt to taste

Method

  1. Extract thin and thick coconut milk separately and reserve each.
  2. Grind the pepper, turmeric and cumin with the thin coconut milk.
  3. Make an aduba of ginger, garlic and onion. Add a little vinegar. Pour in the thin coconut milk and allow to cook for some time.
  4. Add the green chilli (half, for fragrance) and the fish. Cook gently.
  5. A short time before serving, add the thick coconut milk. Remove from heat almost immediately — the thick milk should warm through but never boil.

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Chapter IV

Poultry

Galinha & Aves

Mae's Recipe — Grandmother Eugénia's Method

Galinha à D. Eugénia The Ancestral Chicken

Named for Terezinha's grandmother — or a beloved elder of that name — this recipe appears at the head of the meat chapter as if to declare its primacy. Vinegar, saffron powder, round pepper and pounded ginger-garlic form the unhurried trinity of Goan-Portuguese home cooking. Three tablespoons of lard and two cups of water do the rest.

Ingredients

  • 1 chicken, washed & cut
  • Salt
  • Vinegar
  • Saffron (turmeric) powder
  • Round pepper powder
  • Pepper powder
  • Cumin (girem), a little
  • Garlic & ginger, pounded
  • Lard (banha), 3 tbsp
  • Onions, 2–3
  • Tomatoes, 2
  • Green chillies, 4–6
  • Water, 2 cups

Method

  1. Wash the chicken and apply salt, vinegar, saffron powder, round pepper powder, a little cumin, and pounded ginger and garlic. Rest for 10 minutes.
  2. Make an aduba with the lard, onions, tomatoes and green chillies.
  3. Add the seasoned chicken to the aduba. Pour in 2 cups of water and cook until the chicken is tender and the sauce has reduced.

Note: The simplicity of this recipe belies its depth. The lard is structural — it does not merely fry the aduba but carries the flavour of the spices into every surface of the chicken. It is not a recipe to be made with substitutions on the first attempt.

Family Recipe — Goan Tradition

Chicken Cafreal Green Masala Grilled Chicken

Cafreal is the Goan answer to peri-peri, traceable to Mozambican sailors and traders who sailed the same Indian Ocean routes as the Portuguese colonists. The masala is entirely green — chilli, garlic, pepper, coriander — ground and pressed into chicken that is then fried and finished in hot water until the flesh is deeply tender. Fresh coriander leaves go in at the end.

Ingredients

  • Chicken, ½–1 kg, cut in pieces
  • Green chillies, 8–12
  • Garlic, 6 flakes
  • Ginger, 2" piece
  • Round pepper powder
  • Cumin (girem), ½ tsp
  • Coriander powder (cotmir), ½
  • Turmeric (saffron) powder, 1 tsp
  • Vinegar, 2 tbsp
  • Lime juice
  • Sugar, 1 tsp
  • Hot & sweet sauce (optional)
  • Oil, to fry
  • Salt to taste
  • Fresh coriander leaves, to finish

Method

  1. Grind the green chillies, garlic, ginger, round pepper, cumin, coriander, saffron powder, vinegar, lime juice and sugar together into a smooth paste.
  2. Apply to the chicken pieces with salt and allow to marinate for 1 hour (or overnight).
  3. Fry the marinated chicken in oil until coloured on all sides.
  4. Add hot water to the pan and allow to braise until the chicken is completely tender and the masala clings.
  5. Scatter fresh coriander leaves over the finished dish. Serve with fried potato chips and a wedge of lime.

Alternatively: The chicken can be arranged in a tray with oil and baked in the oven — a method that gives a drier, more caramelised result.

Terezinha's Version

Chicken Vindaloo Kashmiri Chilli & Vinegar

Not the volcanic restaurant provocation the name has come to suggest, but a considered, layered preparation: Kashmiri chilli for its colour over its heat, vinegar for acidity, cumin for earthiness. Fifteen Kashmiri chillies sound alarming; their purpose is as much chromatic as caloric. The pressure cooker is permitted — Terezinha noted it saves gas.

Ingredients

  • Chicken, 1 kg, cut in pieces
  • Kashmiri chillies, 15
  • Onions, 200 g
  • Tomato, 1
  • Garlic, 10 flakes
  • Ginger, 1"
  • Cumin seeds, 1 tsp
  • Cloves, 10
  • Cinnamon, 1" piece
  • Vinegar, 2 tbsp
  • Green chillies, 6
  • Sugar, ¼ tsp
  • Oil, 6 tbsp
  • Salt to taste

Method

  1. Season the chicken with salt and allow to rest.
  2. Fry onions and tomato in oil until golden.
  3. Add the chicken pieces and cook with ground cloves, cinnamon, green chillies and vinegar.
  4. Separately grind the Kashmiri chillies, ginger, garlic and cumin seeds. Add to the chicken when it is half cooked.
  5. Add water and ¼ tsp sugar. Cook until the chicken is tender and the sauce has reduced to a rich, dark red gravy.

Four Family Versions — The Defining Festive Dish

Chicken Biryani Saffron-Layered Rice

No recipe appears more times in the collection than the biryani — four versions, each with slight variations in spice weights, in the proportion of onion to rice, in whether the cardamom is ground or left whole. This is the recipe that was made for every celebration Terezinha presided over. The method below consolidates the four versions into the definitive family form.

Ingredients

  • Chicken, 1 kg, small pieces
  • Basmati rice, 750 g
  • Onions for frying, 500 g
  • Onions for chicken, 150 g
  • Ghee, 150 g
  • Oil, ¼ bottle
  • Kashmiri chillies, 10
  • Green chillies, 6
  • Cinnamon, 2" stick
  • Cloves, 12
  • Cardamom, 12 pods
  • Pepper corns, 1 tsp
  • Cumin seeds, 1 tsp
  • Caraway seeds (sai-geera), ½ tsp
  • Garlic, 10 flakes
  • Coriander leaves, 1 bunch
  • Cashew nuts, 50 g
  • Raisins (kiss-miss), 25 g
  • Milk, ½ cup
  • Lime juice, 1 lime
  • Liquid orange colour, 1 tsp
  • Salt to taste

Method

  1. Apply salt, lime juice and milk to the chicken pieces and rest for 1 hour.
  2. Fry 500 g of sliced onion rings in ghee until deep golden and set aside. Make cardamom powder separately.
  3. Grind all remaining masala: green chillies, cloves, coriander leaves, pepper corns, cinnamon and garlic.
  4. Fry 150 g of onion bits in oil. Add the marinated chicken with all the ground masala. Cook until the chicken is done. Fry cashew nuts and raisins in the same oil.
  5. Cook the rice until just firm — slightly undercooked. Mix a little orange colour with milk and drizzle over a portion of the rice.
  6. Build the biryani in layers: first chicken, then plain white rice, then coloured saffron rice. Dust each layer with cardamom powder and scatter fried onion, cashews and raisins. Repeat until all is used, ending with rice.
  7. Pour the remaining ghee over the top layer. Seal and keep on the lowest possible flame for 20 minutes before serving.

Note: "The rice should be kept a little hard" — all four versions agree on this point. The residual steam inside the sealed pot finishes the cooking without risk of the rice becoming mushy.

Mae's Recipe

Rolo de Pato Duck Roll with Liver, Olives & Peas

Mae's duck roll is among the most technically ambitious recipes in the collection: the skin of the duck spread flat, filled with a mixture of minced meat, liver, gizzard, chouriço, olives, hard-boiled egg and peas, then rolled, tied in cloth and poached in a deeply spiced stock. The stock itself — bones, tomatoes, garlic, ginger, vinegar, saffron, cinnamon and long pepper — is as complex as the roll it carries.

Ingredients — Filling

  • Duck meat, liver & gizzard (moela)
  • Chouriço
  • Garlic & ginger, pounded
  • Lime juice & olive oil
  • Salt & round pepper powder
  • 1 raw egg
  • Olives, chopped
  • Hard-boiled eggs, sliced
  • Green peas

Ingredients — Stock

  • Duck bones & wings, crushed
  • Water, 1½ quartilhos
  • Tomatoes, garlic & ginger, pounded
  • Vinegar & olive oil
  • Saffron, cinnamon, round pepper & long ripe pepper
  • Salt to taste

Method

  1. Mince all filling ingredients together. Add the olives, sliced hard-boiled egg and peas.
  2. Lay the duck skin flat. Spread the filling across it and roll tightly. Tie firmly in a cloth.
  3. Build the stock: combine the crushed duck bones and wings with water, tomatoes, garlic, ginger, vinegar, olive oil, saffron, cinnamon, long pepper and salt. Simmer for 5–6 minutes.
  4. Lower the rolled duck into the simmering stock. Continue cooking until the roll is firm and cooked through.
  5. When cooked, strain the stock. To serve: reheat the strained stock, add a little flour dissolved in water, olive oil, butter and lime juice if needed. Slice the roll and pour the sauce over.

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Chapter V

Meat

Carnes — Beef, Pork & Lamb

Goan Tradition

Sorpatel Spiced Pork & Offal

Goa's most ancient pork preparation: the offal-forward tradition of a culture that wastes nothing and finds profound flavour in the parts others discard. Tamarind, vinegar and red chilli achieve a balance of acid, heat and savour that matures — like all serious things — with time. Sorpatel is always better on the second day, and better still on the third.

Ingredients

  • Pork meat, ½ kg
  • Inner parts (liver, kidney etc.), 1½ kg
  • Ground red chillies, 30
  • Green chillies, slit, 8
  • Turmeric powder, 1 tsp
  • Pepper powder, 1 tsp
  • Cloves, 16
  • Cinnamon, 3"
  • Onions, 400 g
  • Ginger, 2"
  • Garlic, 20 flakes
  • Cumin seeds (girem), 2 tbsp
  • Vinegar, 6 tbsp
  • Tamarind, 1 lime-sized ball
  • Oil, to fry; Salt to taste

Method

  1. Grind ginger, garlic and cumin seeds together. Grind red chillies separately in water.
  2. Boil the pork meat and all inner parts in water with turmeric and salt until cooked. Cut the boiled meat into small pieces.
  3. Fry the meat pieces in oil — not too much, or they harden; not too little. Remove and set aside. Fry the onions in the same oil.
  4. Boil the meat and onions together in the meat stock. Add the ground chillies, ground ginger-garlic-cumin, cloves, cinnamon, vinegar and tamarind juice.
  5. Cook until the gravy is thick and the oil comes to the surface. Taste and adjust vinegar and salt.

Note: "May add more vinegar if required." Sorpatel is a preserve as much as a dish — the vinegar is not seasoning but architecture.

Mae's Recipe — The Family's Everyday Steak

Bifecebolado Onion Beef Steak

Mae's version of the Portuguese steak is simplicity in four movements: beat, season, braise in its own juice, finish with a crown of caramelised onion rings and tomato slices. The Worcester sauce is an optional flourish that speaks to Goa's cosmopolitan pantry — a British condiment absorbed into a Portuguese-Indian kitchen and made entirely at home.

Ingredients

  • Beef, sliced
  • Vinegar, a little
  • Saffron (turmeric) powder
  • Round pepper powder
  • Garlic & tomato paste (tomatada)
  • Salt to taste
  • Onions, in rings
  • Lard (cifa), for frying
  • Worcester sauce (optional)

Method

  1. Beat the beef slices well to tenderise. Season with a little salt, vinegar, saffron powder, round pepper powder, garlic and tomato paste. Rest for a short time.
  2. Heat a frying pan with lard. Arrange the slices in the pan, close with a lid, and cook in the juices that are released from the meat.
  3. When the juices are nearly dry, add a little fat and the onion rings. Allow the onions to fry and caramelise alongside the meat.
  4. Arrange the steak on a serving dish. Crown with the fried onions and sliced tomatoes. Sprinkle with a little Worcester sauce if desired.

Terezinha's Own Recipe

Meat Loaf Steamed Beef & Pork Terrine

The most domestic of Terezinha's directly attributed recipes. Beef and pork minced together, bound with egg and two kinds of bread — one soaked in milk, one in water — seasoned with salt peter and freshly grated nutmeg, steamed in a cloth-lined tin under pressure. "This also makes an ideal sandwich spread," she notes. This is a recipe that lives for the morning after.

Ingredients

  • Minced beef, ½ kg
  • Minced pork, ½ kg
  • Salt peter (papodkar), 1 tsp, finely ground
  • Salt & pepper to taste
  • Eggs, 2
  • Nutmeg, a little, grated
  • Lime juice, a little
  • 1 loaf of bread:
     — ½ soaked in ½ cup milk
     — ½ soaked in water & well squeezed

Method

  1. Prepare the bread: soak half the loaf in milk, the other half in water. Squeeze the water-soaked portion completely dry before using.
  2. Combine all ingredients and mix very thoroughly by hand until fully integrated.
  3. Line a tin with greaseproof paper. Press the mixture firmly into the prepared tin. Cover with a lid or foil.
  4. Steam in a pressure cooker for 30 minutes only. (Without a pressure cooker: 2 hours of conventional steaming.)
  5. Remove from the tin and serve hot or cold as desired.

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Chapter VI

Rice & Baked Dishes

Arroz & Pratos de Forno

Family Kitchen

Arroz de Cominhos Geera Rice — Cumin-Perfumed Basmati

The pressure-cooker method — three whistles, no more — governs this stovetop rice dish in which whole cumin is toasted in oil with crushed garlic until the kitchen fills with their combined fragrance. Maggi cubes dissolve in the water to form a savoury stock-base that elevates what might otherwise be plain rice into something worth serving at a dinner table.

Ingredients

  • Basmati rice, 2 cups
  • Oil, 2 tbsp (kitchen measure)
  • Garlic, 13 cloves, crushed
  • Cumin (cominhos/geera), 1 tbsp
  • Maggi cubes, 2
  • Water, 3¾ cups
  • Green pepper, 1
  • Salt, to taste

Method

  1. Heat oil in the pressure cooker. Add the crushed garlic and fry until lightly golden.
  2. Add the cumin seeds and toast briefly until fragrant.
  3. Add the water, Maggi cubes (dissolve them), the green pepper and the washed rice.
  4. Taste the liquid — it should be pleasantly seasoned, slightly on the salty side, as the rice will absorb it.
  5. Seal the pressure cooker and cook to 3 whistles. Taste and adjust salt if needed before serving.

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Chapter VII

Vegetables & Pulses

Hortalicas & Legumes

Sarita's Recipe

Baigan Bhartha Flame-Charred Brinjal

The brinjal is placed directly into the flame — turned, charred, softened — until the skin blisters black and the interior collapses into a smoky mash. This violence is the recipe's technique: no other method produces the depth of flavour that direct fire achieves. The onion, tomato, ginger-garlic paste and spices are scaffolding around that essential smoke.

Ingredients

  • 1 large brinjal (eggplant)
  • 3 onions, finely sliced
  • 3 tomatoes, chopped
  • Ginger & garlic paste, 1 tsp
  • Coriander seeds, 2 tsp
  • Green chillies, 3
  • Red chilli powder, 1 tsp
  • Turmeric powder, ½ tsp
  • Oil, 6 tbsp
  • Fresh coriander leaves, chopped
  • Salt to taste

Method

  1. Roast the whole brinjal evenly over a low flame, turning frequently, until the skin is charred all over and the flesh is completely soft. Peel away the blackened skin and mash to a smooth paste.
  2. Heat oil in a pan. Add sliced onions and fry until deep brown.
  3. Add the chopped tomatoes and cook for a few minutes until they break down.
  4. Add ginger-garlic paste and all the powdered spices. Stir well and cook for 2 minutes.
  5. Add the brinjal mash and mix thoroughly. Cover and cook on slow fire for 10 minutes until the oil surfaces. Finish with chopped coriander leaves.

M.E.'s Method

Masoor Dal Simple Red Lentil

The most reassuring recipe in the collection. One cup of red lentil, two cups of water, a fried onion, a pinch of turmeric. M.E.'s note is characteristic of the collection's domestic pragmatism: "for a change you can add a little milk." The suggestion to add cotmir leaves and tomato pieces at the last stage — "after mashing the dhal with a spoon" — is the kind of instruction that only someone who has cooked this dish a thousand times would think to include.

Ingredients

  • Masoor dal (red lentil), 1 cup
  • Water, 2 cups
  • 1 onion
  • Cumin powder, ¼ tsp
  • Turmeric, ¼ tsp
  • 1 green chilli
  • Ginger & garlic, a little of each (crushed)
  • Salt, 2 pinches
  • Oil, a little
  • Fresh coriander leaves (optional)
  • Tomato pieces (optional, at the end)
  • A little milk (optional)

Method

  1. Fry the onion in a little oil. Add the crushed masala (ginger, garlic, green chilli) and stir.
  2. Add 2 cups of water. When it comes to the boil, add the washed lentil.
  3. Cook on high flame first, then reduce to a simmer until all water is absorbed and small holes appear on the surface.
  4. Switch off the fire. Mash the lentil with a rounded spoon. Add a little milk if desired, a pinch of pepper and cumin powder. Return briefly to heat until the milk is absorbed.
  5. Off the heat: add coriander leaves and tomato pieces if using. Season with salt. Serve immediately.

M.E.'s Note: "If the dhal is not cooked add a little hot water (never cold) while still on fire."

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Chapter VIII

Sabores do Oriente

The Chinese Chapter — Goa's Adopted Cuisine

Chinese-Goan Style

Ginger Chicken Fried in Batter, Finished in Three Sauces

The Goan Chinese restaurant — a genuine institution that runs from Panaji to Margao — produced its own hybrid cuisine over the course of the twentieth century, and this recipe is its most representative dish. Ground ginger fried in the oil left from the chicken; tomato, soya, and chilli sauces combined; the whole finished with a scattering of spring onion and, if desired, a drizzle of chilli oil made by heating oil with chilli powder and straining it.

Ingredients — Chicken

  • Chicken meat, ½ kg (from 2 kg bird)
  • Soya sauce, 1 tbsp
  • Salt, to taste

Ingredients — Batter

  • Eggs (whole), 2
  • Corn flour, 4 tbsp
  • Ajinomoto, ⅓ tsp
  • Pepper powder, ½ tsp

Ingredients — Sauce

  • Ground ginger, 1 tbsp
  • Tomato sauce, 6 tbsp
  • Soya sauce, 2 tbsp
  • Chilli sauce, 2 tsp
  • Ginger, ½" fresh piece
  • Spring onions, 3
  • Ajinomoto, 1 pinch
  • Sugar & salt to taste

Method

  1. Apply salt and soya sauce to the chicken pieces and rest briefly.
  2. Make the batter: mix corn flour with eggs, then add pepper powder and ajinomoto. Dip the chicken pieces and deep fry until golden brown.
  3. In 3 tbsp of the same frying oil, fry the ground ginger.
  4. Combine the three sauces, sugar, salt and ajinomoto; add to the frying pan and cook until the sauce is fragrant and reduced.
  5. Add the fried chicken and toss to coat. Serve in a long dish, scattered with finely cut spring onion.

Note: "Chilli oil may be sprinkled on this dish — heat oil, add chilli powder, then strain the oil." This finishing technique is pure Goan Chinese.

Sarita's Version

Chop Suey Crisp Noodles in Sweet-Sour Sauce

Sarita's chop suey calls for home-made fine noodles fried until crisp and golden — the Goan preference over the soft noodles of the mainland Chinese version. The sauce is built from tomato ketchup, chilli sauce and a little corn flour to thicken; the vegetables are shredded and fried separately; the whole is assembled at the last moment so every component retains its texture. The recipe ends with the instruction: "You can add fried Ham or Sausages or Pork or Chicken" — a permission that transforms it from formula into principle.

Ingredients

  • Egg noodles, 2, half-boiled then fried crisp
  • Prawns, 1 kg, fried
  • Cabbage, ¼ kg, shredded & fried
  • Carrots, ¼ kg, shredded & fried
  • Spring onions, 2 bundles, fried
  • Capsicums, ¼ kg, shredded
  • Cucumber, 1, in pieces
  • Onions, 2, fried

Sauce

  • Tomato sauce, ½ small bottle
  • Soya sauce, 4 tbsp
  • Vinegar, 4 tbsp
  • Sugar, 2 tbsp
  • Chilli powder, ½ tsp
  • Corn flour, 1 tbsp
  • Water, 1½ cups

Method

  1. Combine all sauce ingredients and bring to a boil. Allow to thicken and keep warm.
  2. Fry all vegetables separately until just cooked. Fry the prawns.
  3. Just before serving: mix the fried prawns and all fried vegetables into the hot boiling sauce.
  4. Pour over a bed of crisp fried noodles. Serve immediately so the noodles remain crisp.

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Chapter IX

Preserves, Pickles & Chutneys

Conservas & Condimentos

Mae's Recipe — The Founding Preserve

Chetney de Manga Mango Chutney

The founding preserve. Mae's mango chutney opens the conservas chapter with the authority of a recipe that has been made by the same hands across decades: mangoes, sugar, ginger, garlic, almonds, long pepper from Aldona (a village famous for it), raisins and half a bottle of vinegar. The ratio table — precisely three arratéis of mango to three of sugar — suggests this was once made in very large quantities, for a very large and hungry household.

Ingredients

  • Green mangoes, 3 arratéis (≈ 1.4 kg)
  • Sugar, 3 arratéis (≈ 1.4 kg)
  • Ginger, 2 oz
  • Garlic, 2 oz
  • Almonds, 1 quarter
  • Long pepper from Aldona, 3 oz
  • Raisins (kiss-miss), ¼ arratel
  • Vinegar, ½ bottle
  • Salt, to taste

Method

  1. Peel the mangoes and cut into small pieces. Apply salt and leave for 2 hours.
  2. Add the sugar and cook for some time.
  3. Add half the ground pepper (ground in vinegar), raisins, ginger, garlic, salt and almonds — all cut into pieces.
  4. Cook on slow fire until ready. Taste and adjust heat as needed.

Scale: 1 kg mango : 1 kg sugar : 62.5 g long pepper : 40 g ginger : 40 g garlic : 80 g almonds : 80 g raisins. These ratios, written in Mae's hand, suggest a recipe designed for the long term.

T. Selina's Recipe

Lime Pickle Jaggery-Sweetened Lime Preserve

T. Selina's lime pickle belongs to a tradition of sweet-hot preserves that runs the length of the Western coastline. The limes are cut and salted in cross, held in sunlight for three days, then immersed in a jaggery syrup sharpened with vinegar and chilli. The result balances bitterness, sweetness and heat with the precision of something that has been refined over many iterations.

Ingredients

  • Limes, 12
  • Salt, 1 tbsp (pounded)
  • Chilli powder, 1 tbsp (pounded)
  • Turmeric powder, 1 dessertspoon
  • Coconut jaggery, ¾ lb
  • Vinegar, ¼ bottle

Method

  1. Cut each lime in fours without fully separating the quarters. Remove the seeds. Fill the cuts with the mixed salt, chilli powder and turmeric.
  2. Keep the filled limes in a bottle, placed in sunlight, for 3 days.
  3. After 5 or 6 days total: melt the jaggery in a pan and add the vinegar. Boil until the syrup thickens.
  4. Add the limes to the thickened syrup. Cook briefly and allow to cool before bottling.

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Chapter X

Goan Heritage Sweets

Doces Goeses — The Ancestral Confections

The Crown Jewel of Goan Baking

Bebinca Layered Coconut-Egg Cake

The layered coconut-egg cake of Goa is the subcontinent's answer to the mille-feuille: each gossamer sheet of batter baked separately in a wood-fired pan until caramel-dark, then another laid upon it, glued with clarified butter. The original recipe calls for 18 eggs. Terezinha's adjusted version uses 13. The note at the end — "it is not necessary to use so much clarified butter, as it becomes very oily" — is the voice of someone who has made this dish many times and arrived at wisdom through experience.

Ingredients

  • White flour (maida), 3 onnatis (400 g)
  • Sugar, 1 kg
  • Eggs, 13 (yolks)
  • Thick coconut milk, from 2 coconuts
  • Nutmeg, 1 tsp, grated
  • Clarified butter (ghee/tup), Nandini or Dalda
  • Salt, 1 tsp

Method

  1. Make a sugar syrup (mel) to the thread stage (ponto de folha) and allow to cool.
  2. Dissolve the flour in the strained coconut milk without lumps. Strain through a cloth and add to the syrup.
  3. Pass the 13 egg yolks through a straining cloth or fine sieve. Add to the mixture along with the salt (dissolved in the warm syrup) and the grated nutmeg last.
  4. Heat the oven with fire above and below. Melt two tablespoons of clarified butter in the baking tin and ensure the tin is level.
  5. Pour one ladle of batter into the hot tin. After 20–35 minutes, when the first layer is golden-brown, remove the lower heat and lay the second layer. Continue until all batter is used — adding two more tablespoons of ghee every four layers.
  6. Ensure the final layer bakes to a good appearance. Decorate with cashew or almond halves.

Note: Original recipe: 2 onnatis (275 g) flour, 2 arratéis (1 kg) sugar, 18 eggs. "Not necessary to use so much butter — it becomes very oily."

Goan Tradition

Dodol Coconut & Jaggery Fudge

Dodol is the most patient of Goa's sweets: the coconut milk and jaggery must be stirred continuously over the fire until they reach a thick, sticky consistency that pulls away from the pan. The raw rice flour is added last and demands the same unbroken attention. Cashew nut pieces stirred in near the end are an optional generosity that transforms the sweet from confection into gift.

Ingredients

  • Coconuts, 4
  • Raw rice flour, ¼ kg
  • Goan jaggery (jagra de palmeira), 800 g
  • Cardamom powder
  • Salt to taste
  • Cashew nut pieces (optional)

Method

  1. Grind the coconuts and extract 4 bottles of milk.
  2. Boil three bottles of coconut milk with the jaggery until the mixture is thick and sticky.
  3. Mix the rice flour with the remaining one bottle of coconut milk until smooth. Add to the boiling mixture.
  4. Stir and cook continuously until sufficiently dry and sticky (cashew pieces may be added at this stage).
  5. Pour into buttered flat plates. As it cools, cut into pieces. Allow to set completely before serving.

Family Recipe

Nancattai Ghee Shortbread

The nancattai — Goa's ghee shortbread — is the recipe that appears in every kitchen notebook in the region. Butter beaten with sugar until dissolved, flour folded in with bicarbonate of soda, the dough rested for two hours. A piece of cherry or raisin pressed into the centre of each small round before baking. They emerge golden, crumbling, fragrant with clarified butter — the smell of every Goan household at Christmas.

Ingredients

  • Clarified butter (ghee/tup), 1 arratel (200 g)
  • Fine sugar, 1 arratel (200 g)
  • White flour, 2 arratéis (400 g)
  • Bicarbonate of soda, a little
  • Salt, to taste
  • Cherry or raisin pieces, to press in the centre

Method

  1. Beat the clarified butter well. Add the fine sugar and continue beating until fully dissolved.
  2. Add the flour with salt and a little bicarbonate of soda. Rest the dough for 2 hours.
  3. Form small rounds. Press a piece of cherry or raisin into the centre of each.
  4. Place on a buttered aluminium tray. Bake on low heat (fogo brando) until lightly golden.

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Chapter XI

Desserts & Puddings

Sobremesas

Pequenina's Recipe — "Little One"

Mousse de Chocolate Four Ingredients, Perfect Result

The most elegant recipe in the desserts chapter belongs to someone called Pequenina — Little One — whose full name is never recorded. The mousse requires only chocolate, sugar, eggs and butter. It is the kind of recipe that travels between kitchens without ever being written down, until it appears in a notebook like this one, attributed to a nickname, and that is how it stays forever.

Ingredients

  • Chocolate, 150 g
  • Sugar, 5 tbsp
  • Eggs, 6 (separated)
  • Butter, 1 tbsp
  • A few drops of water

Method

  1. Melt the chocolate over a few drops of water. Remove from heat.
  2. Add the ground sugar, stirring well. Then add the egg yolks and butter. Beat everything together thoroughly.
  3. Beat the egg whites to stiff peaks. Fold gently into the chocolate mixture — do not stir after this stage.
  4. Pour into a large serving bowl. Decorate with whipped cream, broken walnuts or pieces of walnut as desired.
  5. Refrigerate until set.

Marked "v.g." — Terezinha's Own Note

Ginger Biscuit & Rum Pudding The Party Pudding

The recipe is marked "v.g." — very good — in Terezinha's own hand. Ginger biscuits dunked in rum, layered with sweetened whipped cream, chilled overnight. It is the kind of dessert that appears at every festive table and disappears before the main course plates are cleared. The cherries and walnuts on top are the only decoration it needs.

Ingredients

  • Ginger biscuits, ½ kg
  • Rum, ½ kg bottle
  • Whipped cream, 2 cups
  • Sugar, to taste
  • Cherries & walnuts, for decoration

Method

  1. Whip the cream with sugar to taste until holding soft peaks.
  2. Dip each ginger biscuit briefly in rum.
  3. Arrange a layer of rum-soaked biscuits in a serving dish. Spread a layer of the cream mixture over them.
  4. Continue alternating layers of soaked biscuit and cream until all ingredients are used.
  5. Cover the entire pudding with cream on the top and sides. Decorate with cherries and walnuts. Chill thoroughly before serving.

Family Recipe

Lover's Pudding Condensed Milk, Gelatine & Biscuit Crumbs

The name is unexplained and unexplainable. The pudding is rich: condensed milk beaten with egg yolks and sugar over a double boiler, set with gelatine, folded through stiff beaten whites, layered with crushed Marie biscuit, studded with nuts, raisins and cherries. The instruction to scrape chocolate over the biscuit layer is noted as delivering "better taste" — an understatement of some ambition.

Ingredients

  • Condensed milk, 1 tin
  • Egg yolks, 6
  • Sugar, 4 tbsp
  • Vanilla essence, a few drops
  • Gelatine, 20 g
  • Walnuts/cashews, 100 g
  • Marie biscuits, 100 g
  • Raisins, 100 g
  • Cherries, for decoration
  • Chocolate slab (optional, for scraping)

Method

  1. Beat the egg yolks with sugar over a double boiler (banho Maria) until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. Add the condensed milk and continue beating well.
  2. Dissolve gelatine in warm water. Add to the mixture, beat well. Add vanilla essence.
  3. Beat egg whites to stiff peaks and fold into the mixture.
  4. In a wet mould, arrange nuts and raisins on the base. Add a layer of the mixture, then powdered Marie biscuit, then more mixture, more nuts and raisins, and so on.
  5. The final layer should be biscuit powder (for serving in the same dish). Decorate with nuts, raisins, cherries. For better taste: scrape a chocolate slab on top along with biscuit powder. Refrigerate to set.

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Chapter XII

Biscuits & Cakes

Bolachas & Bolos

Joan Rebelo's Recipe

Rose Cookies Iron-Mould Fried Pastries

The rose cookie — made by dipping a heated iron mould into a coconut-milk batter and then into hot oil — is one of Goa's most theatrical kitchen preparations. The mould must be very hot before the batter, or the cookie will not release. Joan Rebelo's version uses coconut milk, eggs and a little baking powder — a simpler batter than some, which is part of why it works so reliably.

Ingredients

  • White flour, ½ kg
  • Eggs, 2
  • Coconut milk, from 1 coconut
  • Sugar, to taste
  • Baking powder, a little
  • Salt, a pinch
  • Oil, for deep frying

Method

  1. Combine all ingredients and prepare the batter to the correct consistency — smooth, not too thick, not too thin.
  2. Heat the rose cookie iron thoroughly in deep oil.
  3. Dip the hot iron into the batter (do not submerge the top of the mould), then immediately lower into the hot oil.
  4. The cookie will release from the mould as it fries. Fry until golden and crisp.
  5. Drain on paper and serve dusted with fine sugar or plain.

The iron: The mould must be returned to the oil to reheat between each cookie, or the batter will not release cleanly.

Family Recipe

Vanilla Biscuits The Everyday Biscuit

The vanilla biscuit appears under three names across the collection — biscuits, bolacha, cookie — and the recipe varies only in minor proportions. This version is its most distilled form: ghee and sugar creamed together, two eggs and vanilla added, flour kneaded in. The instruction to shape before baking is unspecified — which means every household made them differently, in whatever shape the hands remembered from childhood.

Ingredients

  • Flour (maida), 500 g
  • Ghee (clarified butter), 250 g
  • Sugar, 250 g
  • Eggs, 2
  • Vanilla essence, ½ tsp
  • Salt, a pinch

Method

  1. Cream the ghee and sugar together until light.
  2. Add the eggs one at a time, and the vanilla essence.
  3. Sift the flour and add to the mixture. Knead until a smooth dough forms.
  4. Shape the biscuits as desired and place on a prepared baking sheet.
  5. Bake in a pre-heated oven until lightly golden.

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Chapter XIII

Drinks & Elixirs

Bebidas & Xaropes

Family Recipe

Vinho de Ananaz Home-Made Pineapple Wine

The pineapple wine that closes the collection is the most economical of recipes: pineapple juice, spirit, sugar to taste. It is the kind of thing made when there is a surplus of fruit and a long monsoon ahead. The instruction to strain the juice well suggests this was made from whole crushed pineapples, not tins — a recipe of abundance, transformed into a lasting pleasure.

Ingredients

  • Ripe pineapples, well ground and strained
  • Spirit (espirito), 1 bottle per 2 bottles of juice
  • Sugar, to taste

Method

  1. Grind the pineapples thoroughly and strain the juice carefully to remove all fibre.
  2. For every two bottles of pineapple juice, add one bottle of spirit.
  3. Sweeten to taste with sugar. Stir until dissolved.
  4. Bottle and store in a cool place. Allow to rest for at least several days before serving.

Note: This is a home ferment in the oldest tradition — simple, direct, generous. Adjust the spirit quantity to make it stronger or lighter, and the sugar to suit the sweetness of the fruit.